Wall Underlayment

 

Wall Underlayment


Although a tile wall doesn't need to support the weight that a tile floor does, the underlayment still must be flat, solid and secured well to the framing.

If your existing walls are flat and in good condition you can usually tile over them.

If plaster walls have holes and cracks they can be patched with spackling or joint compound. If the plaster crumbles when poked with a screwdriver it should be removed and replaced.

Loose paint should be scraped off and glossy paint roughed up with sand paper. Wallpaper should be scraped off and all the glue removed before tiling.

Always make sure the surface is clean, dry and dust free before installing tile over it.

Benidorm Hoteles CercanosIf your existing wall is damaged beyond repair, it must be removed and replaced with either drywall, greenboard, or concrete backerboard. Which you choose depends on your situation.

WARNING: Some older patching compounds, textured paint and insulation may contain asbestos fibers. Some paints may contain lead. Before sanding, scraping or tearing into walls, have a trained inspector determine if asbestos or lead is present.


Drywall

Drywall is a standard wall covering in most residential construction. It is considered a good underlayment for wall tile as long it won't be exposed to moisture.

There are some basic principles to follow when hanging drywall. First, start with the ceiling and then work to the walls. And always run the sheets perpendicular to the framing.

Cut drywall with a utility knife using a drywall square as a guide. Score the sheet then snap it back to break it. The cut the paper on the back side. You can also use a drywall saw to cut the drywall around obstacles.

You can use either nails or screws to fasten drywall. Screws are stronger. Use one screw every 12 inches along the framing. There are special drywall screw guns which let you sink the screws a little below the surface. Nails are probably easier to use. Use two nails every 12 inches along the framing. Drywall hammers have a special head that sinks the nails below the surface.


Drywall Installation Tips

Stagger the sheets from row to row so the joints don't line up. This makes it stronger. Never place a joint at the corner of a window or door; it'll be more likely to crack.

Leave at least 1/4" space above the lip of bathtubs, shower pans or receptors.

At the outside corners, attach metal corner bead.

cheap hotels in ValkenburgThe joints of the drywall need to be taped and mudded. Using fiberglass mesh tape, instead of the usual paper joint tape, will give you stronger joints for under ceramic tile.

Trowel on two coats of joint compound or "mud" over the joints. You won't need a finish coat like you would for a bare wall. Also mud over the nail or screw heads, and the metal corner bead. Let the joints set before installing the tile.


Moisture-Resistant Drywall

Moisture-resistant drywall, or "greenboard" as it's often called, is made out of the same gypsum core as drywall. The only difference is that it has a moisture-resistant facing.

Greenboard is sometimes used as an underlayment in wet areas such as a bathtub surround or shower. It's installed the same way as standard drywall.

Keep in mind that greenboard is not water-proof. And if your tile is not sealed properly the greenboard may deteriorate from moisture penetration.


Concrete Backerboard

Concrete backerboard has a solid concrete core and is faced on both sides with fiberglass. It's an ideal underlayment for wet areas like shower walls and bathtub surrounds.

Some backer board is a bit thinner than drywall. If your backer board meets a drywall surface, you may have to first fur out the studs with strips of builders felt to make the surfaces flush.

Furring strips should also be used in a shower that has a shower pan running up the sides. These will make the surface even for the backerboard. Little blocks are used here to hold the backerboard up because a mortar bed still has to be poured over the shower pan.

Cutting backerboard is a lot like cutting drywall, except that backerboard is much harder. Using a framing square, score your cut line a few times. You can use a regular utility knife for this, but you'll go through a lot of blades. A special carbide-blade cutter works better.

Tip: If you're using a utility knife, shorten the blade to keep it from breaking.

Break the board by applying pressure until it snaps apart along the score line. You'll probably have to cut through the fiberglass on the back also.


Installing Backerboard

Start installing backerboard at the furthest back wall and work your way from the bottom up.

TIP: Put a blanket down in the bathtub before you work to protect it from getting scratched or chipped.

Use galvanized nails or screws to secure the backerboard. If you're working above a shower pan, be sure to nail or screw above it so you don't puncture the fabric.

The ends of the backerboard sheets should be centered over the studs, but stagger the joints so they don't line up with one another. Leave about 1/8" space between the sheets of backerboard.

Cut holes in the backerboard for around shower and bath controls. Score the mesh on both sides of the board and hammer on it until it breaks out.

You want to mud and tape the joints of the backerboard. First use a self-adhering fiberglass tape, then fill the joints with tile adhesive using a taping knife. Like drywall, the sheets have tapered edges, this allows you to fill the joints and still stay level with the backerboard.


FLOOR TILE INSTALLATION     WALL LAYOUT


 
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